The pigment that will be used to create your new brows
will fade up to 60 percent depending on your skin type (your t-zone), some skin types such as oily or thin skin make the pigment fade dramatically whereas some such as normal will heal to stay for a good couple of years.
The end colour of the healed pigment is one of the most important factors when it comes to microblading your brows.
The straight after of your freshly tattooed eyebrows are always created with brown pigment, which is what we all desire after the procedure and the healed. Unfortunately, the healed version will change colour after 2 to 4 weeks and this is what you will have on your skin surrounding your eyebrows whether it stays a few weeks/months or lasts years.
Some examples of my clients with Red brows who visit me for pigment wiper some are bright red, some orange to peachy tones some deep purple with grey.
So, you have had your brows microbladed or shaded and left your appointment super happy with the current results.
Your brows will now start the healing process, initially they will get darker and after day 5-7 they will start to lighten. You will be due for your initial top up appointment in about 4 to 5 weeks. However, around week 3 you notice some red undertones showing through on your skin, by week 4 onwards you may start seeing it coming through even more leaving you slightly confused.
You arrive to your top up and ask your technician and she explains to you it is to do with the fading and that your skin has created this outcome. She will explain that you need to do the top up for better results, furthermore that you will need regular top ups to maintain the original colour due to your skin causing this reaction.
So now you have had your top up, and starting the healing process again…
Week 4 the same thing has happened but this time they may look thicker in size or in strokes as the tattoo is now more deeper and the tones of red/purple has come through… you may have re-questioned this with your technician but the answer will always remain the same.
This is more or less the story behind all my clients with red or similar tones of pigment on the brow area that I am trying to re-transform.
In this situation one advice I can give you is when you notice this is happening to you from the beginning do not proceed with the top up, doing so will only cause you to have a deeper tattoo making it harder to remove, sometimes impossible. If you are unsure please seek another professionals advice and don’t go ahead with your top up.
Taking a step into PMU and the disappointment.
When you have decided on getting your brows tattooed and finding the artist you want to go with I think the most common thing people do is to only check the photos of the before and after and just think about what shape they want their new brows to look like and that’s about it. This is quite normal to be honest as you don’t think such things can happen, however, no one asks the question ‘will my brows turn red when healed’ only because at least by now you must have seen one or heard of one person who’s brows have gone wrong, so you have an idea this can happen.
In all honesty, your technician will say no, a no if they know the truth as they don’t want to lose the client and don’t know what other options they have or a no because they actually don’t have a clue because they have not learnt about the pigment colours and what colours will do this once healed on your skin.
For many years I have had clients with this problem that I have been trying to help. I never ask them who they went to as this is not in my interest and I would not know as there are thousands of artists. However, there is a popular name in the industry that keeps popping up when my clients start talking about the bad service and experience they have had. I really hope this blog finds its way to her somehow in hope that maybe she will change her pigments.
Dear fellow artist, please stop telling your clients accusing and shouting at them that the cause of their red brows is because they
‘did not look after their brows during the healing stage’
‘saw some sun or got them wet’
‘missed the top up time so its their fault that they have turned red now’
‘didn’t use the cream provided’.
None of this has got to do with the brows turning red.
I wanted to share my thoughts on this topic with you all from my years of experience and whether you wish to book in with me or not you are now fully aware, and I want other technicians to read this to help them on working more effectively. I’m upset for all those women who come to me to remove or try to cover red, purple, orange, pink, blue, green brow tattoos. It is sometimes a very slow and in some cases a very difficult process to remove/lighten the colour, it can be very painful for some and highly cost effective which is just unfair.
To all brow artists; when your client asks you this question or when you see this for yourself overtime that everyone is returning with red brows please be honest or you can research into ashy/organic pigments and start to use these instead of the ones you were taught with.
That small tube of pigment,
Why do they change to this colour? Its so simple, because these pigments are made of heavy metals and oxide minerals which is used as colourants to create the brow pigments. The higher the iron oxide the more red purple we will see on your skin when healed, higher metals cause more deep grey/black or green/blue.
No brow pigment will stay brown, this has not been invented I guess it’s more technical than we thought otherwise, why not. You actually have two options which I usually talk about in my perfection class for brow pmu so I won’t be able to explain any further here. Incase you are wondering, when I microblade the skin heals ashy which is what you want some people heal very light some heal perfectly to their skin undertone and some more cold depending on the skin and how the skin reacts to the slight scratches. there are so many factors that go with which tone of ash they will heal to all depending on the skin and skin undertone.
What do I use?
The pigment I use is vegan, animal cruelty free, Clean and non magnetised - almost a PURE formula, a formula that is not seen as foreign body by human organisms causing no allergic reactions. This pigment is made by one of the most prestigious and successful microblading academy in the world. It does not come cheap, it is the most expensive in the market, however, it is the name and the brand and the trust for me, reputation is everything!
One of the services I provide is Pigment wiper which safely removes and or lightens the old pigment ready for the new brows. It also comes with a solution called Red Line which we use for red toned brows to safely remove them. You can find all the information about pigment wiper on my treatments list on this webpage or request a brochure.
I have many clients who come to me to remove the old tattoo on their brows or eyeliner, one of the obvious reasons being the pigment turning red or purple or it’s extremely out of shape.
Apart from the pigment around your brow area turning red it may have healed to a very dark ashy tone or more towards deep grey. This is due to again bad pigments used however sometimes, it really be your own skin, if the technician is using good quality pigments and this happens (e.g oily skin or thin skin which bleeds more) it is because every skin type is different, everyone reacts to the semi permanent make up procedure differently and overtime with regular top ups you will see that the strokes spread into one whole area. I advise my clients to come back every 12 to 18 months for there top ups.
In any case your other option of removing the unwanted brow pigment is laser, majority are scared of this as the word goes that the laser may damage your hair follicles, but after doing pigment wiper and in some cases where we get a good lift of colour but it is no longer budging I do refer my clients to a session or two for laser, however as far as I know laser will not really remove the red tones or the yellows but pigment wiper can.
Both these treatments are not magic it is a long process and takes time to see results.
Last and foremost make sure you are checking your technicians ‘before and healed’ work, they may not have posted any on their page but if I was you I would request a few, If you cant get hold of any then go somewhere else who can show you.
Microblading is not exactly a cheap service, if gone wrong and you have not researched well in the long run it will cost you hundreds more and a very long, painful and frustrating process by trying to remove them. You’re better off paying that few extra ££ and knowing very well you will be in safe hands.
Love Nez x
Examples of the before and after 3 to 6 sessions of the Pigment Wiper and a few Red Line